Fulbright held an orientation for the “Fulbrighters” working in Brazil this year. As many of you know, I don’t ever read directions (i.e., orient myself in any way), but this program was excellent. Some highlights included must-know info. For instance, when a Brazilian says you should drop by his house com certeza [with certainty], this means he doesn’t actually expect – or necessarily want – you to. During the security briefing, when asked about the clearest indicator that we are foreigners, the police captain said, “The second you open your mouths.” Shoes are the next best indicator. A professor from the School of Education at Universidade de São Paulo gave a lecture entitled, “A Expressividade do Brasileiro (Why Brazilians’ Expressive Personality Can Sometimes Confuse Foreigners).” I’m still not clear on etiquette upon meeting someone in a friendly situation. In São Paulo it’s supposedly one kiss; in Rio it’s two. But if you’re a Carioca (person from Rio) physically in São Paulo it’s still two. Here in Belém and other parts of Pará, often someone clasps your hand and kisses the back of it.
Boas compras!
One of our sightseeing trips included a visit to the Mercado Municipal – an open-air market in downtown São Paulo. I stopped to ask a butcher about something in his meat case I couldn’t identify (picture, triangular tray to the right). “Pênis do boi,” he said. [boi = ox or beef.] “Oh. So what’s that next to it?” (picture, triangular tray to the left). “Saco do boi.” Ask a stupid question . . . At least it earned me two thumbs-up.
No jardim de esculturas
After delicious food, hanging out, meeting with the best and most helpful Fulbright Program Officers Patrícia and Luana in a gorgeous part of São Paulo, and learning about all the interesting research other Fulbrighters are doing, I set off for my flight to Belém . . . which took ELEVEN hours. ELEVEN. We stopped in Salvador, Recife, and Fortaleza before landing in Belém. That was a LOT of peanuts. I will never complain about a layover in the U.S. again.
Next stop – Belém do Pará . . .
Life with Its Teeth Out 